Review | Tom Sietsema’s 7 favorite places to eat right now


Washington chef Nico Cezar was a buyer the primary time he skilled Tonari, the Chinatown restaurant with the Japanese-inflected Italian menu launched in February 2020. “It eats proper,” he says he thought to himself as he tried pasta and pizza not like that served anyplace else on the town. “It’s so properly accomplished.”

Tonari lasted a couple of month earlier than the pandemic compelled its closure. When the homeowners of the Daikaya Group turned on the lights once more, in December, Cezar, 36, discovered himself within the kitchen as chef de delicacies. The reborn restaurant presents a sign-of-the-times, reservations-only, thrice-weekly tasting menu that picks up the place co-owner Katsuya Fukushima left off and advantages from Cezar’s wealthy résumé. The Philippine native has cooked at such various institutions as Michel Richard Central, Mintwood Place and Masseria within the District.

Diners get a alternative between two dishes per course. One of the best technique is to go as two and pattern all the pieces. Your menu is prone to learn otherwise than mine (the menu adjustments each two weeks or so) however with luck would possibly checklist beluga lentils cooked in dashi and bulked up with garlicky Toulouse sausage, and spiral pasta whose supple ridges catch the warmth of Calabrian chiles and the sass of pepperoni and different meat — Spam, included. Spiky bitter greens stand in for conventional romaine in Tonari’s Caesar salad. “Japanese love bitter,” says Cezar. “So do Italians.” The anchovy dressing will get its umami from shio koji, a condiment primarily based on fermented rice.

The pizzas take me again two years, which means the crust is seductive as ever: pillowy within the center, crisp alongside the perimeters, faintly candy (like Japanese bread). Image one thing between focaccia and Detroit-style, with toppings which may embody clams, pecorino, oregano and — this being wafu Italian fare — pickled seaweed. Cezar is letting the season information him. Spring is anticipated to see a Hawaiian pizza topped with grilled pineapple and plum sauce.

For the second, solely the bottom ground of the two-story restaurant close to Capital One Enviornment is open. The homeowners hope to maneuver the tasting script to the fancier upstairs eating room quickly, and to dedicate the primary ground, dressed with bar and cubicles, to an a la carte menu and walk-in site visitors.

707 Sixth St. NW. 202-289-8900. Open for indoor eating. 5-course tasting menu $75.

The crown jewel in a group of culinary attracts created by power mogul Paul Prager on the Jap Shore, Bas Rouge pays homage to his pet metropolis of Vienna. Because the founding father of Beowulf Power says, “For opera, sweets and crystal, it’s onerous to beat.”

Prager has spared no expense at his formal restaurant, which makes use of a French nickname for a breed of herding canine distinguished by its crimson ft. German looking scenes are captured in Nineteenth-century work, and the fragile crystal, from Zalto, all however defies gravity. The current addition of a second eating space, a cheese cart and a bar reserved solely for reservation-holders provides to the luxurious quotient. The winter menu gathers Asian accents (beef tataki), European classics (hen ballotine) and components from the Chesapeake Bay (smoky native oysters, served as a soup with crisp bacon, tender potatoes and scorching cream).

The Outdated World setting calls for Wiener schnitzel. Bas Rouge delivers, with a deboned veal loin that’s pounded skinny, evenly dusted with flour, dipped in an egg wash and rolled in crumbs from bread produced at Prager’s close by bakery. The veal slices are cooked over low warmth in a consistently transferring pan, making a “souffle” impact whereby the crust lifts away from the meat. A staple on the lunch menu, the entree may be ordered prematurely for dinner.

Your want appears to be the eating vacation spot’s command. Twenty wines are poured by the glass, little sweets are supplied earlier than you exit and (ahhh) the background music by no means interferes with dialog. Bas Rouge is nothing if not civilized.

19 Federal St. Easton, Md. 410-822-1637. Open for indoor eating. Three- and four-course menus $100 and $125, respectively.

Rupa Vira by no means went to culinary college. She realized her craft in Mumbai, the place her husband steadily invited firm for dinner on the final minute. “I would like you to be well-known!” he instructed her.

Vira relocated to the USA along with her household in 2003 and went on to turn out to be a caterer and the proprietor of two eating places, the most recent being Celebration in Ashburn. The identify fits the design and the cooking. Each are straightforward on the eyes. The lounge — my most well-liked perch — is about off with chairs the colour of lemongrass and a modern bar, illuminated in order that the spirits on the cabinets appear to glow. The plates are distinguished with edible flowers and avant-garde touches.

The looker amongst first programs is a variation of the palak chaat made well-known by Rasika in Washington. Vira’s yogurt-striped stunner brings collectively fried kale and spinach, juicy pear, good pomegranate seeds and what appear like pearls. (They’re really blueberry and yogurt inside gel-like spheres of the sort made widespread by modernist cooks together with José Andrés of Minibar fame.) Filled with taste, the salad’s airy-crisp texture is a marvel. Scrumptious lamb patties are staged on flaky paratha alongside a trio of colourful sauces in an appetizer with a backstory a couple of long-ago Nawab of Lucknow. The ageing monarch liked meat however had misplaced his enamel, prompting royal cooks to create one thing comfortable. Vira’s modern model is galouti kebab, lamb seasoned with star anise and different heat spices and mashed in order to not overtax the jaw.

Vira makes use of coloration like a painter. Tender morsels of hen in a velvety inexperienced drape of pureed cilantro and cashews add as much as a superlative korma, merely streaked with chile oil. Goat meat cooked to comfortable succulence pulses with recent ginger in a curry coloured with ratanjot, a plant whose roots yield a pure crimson dye. We ask for the goat “spicy,” which interprets to teasing moderately than sweat-inducing. However, it’s luscious. Vira’s on-the-fly dinners in Mumbai are recalled in her butternut squash kofta, a dish she made for her husband and associates, and a prize amongst Celebration’s vegetarian picks. Thumbs of mashed, fried squash and potatoes lounge in a creamy onion gravy that acquires its crimson shade and contact of sweetness from goji berries.

The homeowners aimed for a restaurant by which diners may rely on a festive time, whatever the day of the week. Celebration by Rupa Vira looks like simply that social gathering.

44260 Ice Rink Plaza, Ashburn, Va. 571-281-2233. Open for takeout, supply and indoor eating. Entrees, $16 to $30.

It’s a household affair at this shout-out to Mercat de la Boqueria, the must-see maze of meals stalls and eateries in Barcelona. Within the kitchen is Georges Rodrigues, late of Boqueria in Washington. On the bar is his brother-in-law, Wendel Alves. Just like the design? Credit score for the crimson shutters framing painted alleyways and the good-looking wall of wine goes to the chef’s spouse, Wanessa Alves.

When you’ve been grazing on small plates for some time, there’s little on the menu you in all probability haven’t seen. Tortilla Espanola? Fried calamari? The gang’s all right here, together with luscious cod croquettes and chorizo and inexperienced salsa on toasted bread — the most effective open-face sandwich for miles. There’s a single foremost dish, paella, albeit in 4 guises. Probably the most dramatic pan is probably the most scrumptious: bomba rice, stained black with squid ink and embellished with grilled calamari and sunny aioli. To spoon is to swoon.

Resist filling up on tapas. Desserts are easy however elegant. Churro “rellenos” are fats with fillings of caramel or chocolate, and the “burnt” cheesecake delivers a heady style of San Sebastian.

101 Gibbs St. Rockville, Md. 240-403-7436. Open for takeout and indoor eating. Tapas $5 to $25.

Understanding the place Matt Baker has been helps clarify one of the vital eclectic menus round. Born in Houston, the chef spent a number of time in New Orleans, house to his mom, Michele. Baker’s French coaching at culinary college in Miami was put to scrumptious use at his upscale Gravitas in Washington.

His newest attraction unfolds within the Eaton lodge downtown, the place hamachi crudo, pork crepinette and a Flintstonian grilled rib-eye compete for diners’ consideration. However first, a steaming cup of artichoke velouté, a present from the kitchen that retains alive the reminiscence of his late, soup-loving mother.

Who wants pizza when there’s tart flambee, its skinny, puff pastry crust a canvas for caramelized onions, creme fraiche, sliced potatoes and gooey Gruyere? A star amongst appetizers is the razor clam ceviche organized with marcona almonds and juicy grapes and haunting with smoked Spanish paprika. Any meal is enhanced with brioche flavored with scallions, chives, garlic and sesame oil, a nod to the Chinatown of Houston.

The meals is served by gracious individuals in a eating room that appears suited to the instances, with snug cubicles hugging the partitions. Baker’s biography frees the pastry chef to placed on the menu a souffle and a sundae, in addition to the town’s finest rice pudding, flavored just like the tropics with coconut milk and glassy pineapple chips.

1201 Ok St. NW. 202-758-0895. Open for takeout, supply and indoor eating. Entrees, $24 to $90 (for shareable rib-eye)

Numerous eating places trimmed their picks through the pandemic, partly due to the uncertainty of provides but in addition due to a smaller pool of employees. Shilling Canning Firm in Close to Southeast took one other tack. “How will we make this extra thrilling, and get individuals to return again repeatedly?” chef-owner Reid Shilling requested.

His response was to introduce a three-course menu that adjustments weekly and prices about what dinners go for throughout Restaurant Week promotions: $60. The meal deal is along with a small a la carte menu (pork chops and fried hen are among the many crowd pleasers) and the choice of a seven-course unfold on the chef’s counter, with Shilling taking part in tour information.

Cut price hunters ought to act on the three-course checklist, a snapshot of the chef’s vary that just lately featured brook trout and brief rib en croute as entrees. The fish, splashed with horseradish butter, and its mattress of blackened cabbage sprang from the restaurant’s wood-fired fireplace. The brioche-enclosed beef and mushrooms confirmed up on creamy spinach lapped with madeira sauce — “the whole package deal,” says the chef of the good-looking feast, and I concur. “Classics are classics for a motive,” says Shilling, who additionally makes a meatless Wellington utilizing butternut squash.

Returning to the restaurant after an absence of two years made me really feel responsible. There I used to be, not telling you a couple of dreamy risotto made with farro and carrots or silken orange panna cotta brightened with citrus salad and served with buttery pistachio shortbread. “The whole lot we serve right here, we make,” says the chef. That features the snappy garlic sausage splayed over braised greens and creamy grits, a alternative first course.

Shilling Canning Firm — a salute to the chef’s household’s onetime enterprise in Carroll County, Md. — jogs my memory that cooking will not be the only real motive we exit to eat. Ambiance and a spotlight are equally necessary tugs. The eating room advantages from streams of sunshine, good music, pillows on the banquette and servers who make you are feeling such as you’ve chosen the proper place for date evening.

360 Water St. SE. 202-554-7474. Open for takeout, supply, indoor and out of doors eating. Entrees, $29 to $45.

The blokes behind Washington’s singular Swiss restaurant have a PSA concerning fondue.

“Dip your fork all the way in which all the way down to the underside of the cheese,” and swirl, to stop the cheese — a mix of Vacherin and Schlossberger, just like Gruyere — from burning, says co-owner Silvan Kraemer.

Secure chef David Fritsche applies the Korean barbecue rule (“Don’t eat the rice, eat the meat”) to the Swiss staple: Get numerous cheese on each chew of bread so that you’re not filling up on bread.

Friends and I bought an opportunity to place these and different ideas to make use of at brunch this month, simply forward of some inches of snow within the District. My posse was parked exterior, however close to a heater, on metallic chairs draped with blankets — a snug setting, if not fairly as cozy as inside, the place little chalets welcome diners who thought to order prematurely. Secure’s scorching drinks — gluhwein throughout! — helped beat back the nippiness, too. Whereas it isn’t listed on the menu, the bar serves white in addition to crimson mulled wine. Kraemer says the pale model, incorporating apple juice, is stylish in his native Switzerland.

Fondue paired with potatoes and pickles lured me to Secure. Hen liver pâté and grilled bratwurst made me glad to be there, too. The appetizer, made with duck fats butter, brandy and port, is without doubt one of the richest spreads round; housemade wurzel bread makes for a wonderful canvas. The veal sausage, primarily based on a recipe from the chef’s cousin, a Swiss butcher, arrives with shattering-crisp potato rosti, a plate so scorching it continues to steam for a number of minutes. Make sure to discover room for some Tête de Moine, if solely to admire how the mountain cheese is carved into what resemble boutonnieres.

Snowflakes falling quicker and tougher urged it was time to go away. Kraemer sweetened our goodbye with a free of charge Berliner, or sugar-dusted doughnut, for every of us. Hospitality is considered one of Secure’s sturdy fits. So is practicality. The restaurant isn’t open for dinner on Sunday, which prompted the giveaway of pastries towards the tip of service. “We have now no use for them,” says the chef. Grateful diners do!

1324 H St. NE. 202-733-4604. Open for indoor and outside eating, supply and takeout. Brunch entrees, $14 to $18.


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